What is the breaker of a wave?
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Zoe Davis
Studied at the University of Cape Town, Lives in Cape Town, South Africa.
Hello, I'm an expert in the field of oceanography, and I'd be happy to explain the concept of a wave breaker.
A breaker is a type of wave that has reached the shore and is collapsing under its own weight. The process of a wave breaking is influenced by several factors, including the depth of the water, the shape of the sea floor, the size and power of the wave, and the presence of any obstacles such as rocks or sandbars.
There are several types of breakers:
1. Spilling breakers occur when the wave's length is longer than the depth of the water. The top of the wave spills over the front in a cascade of foam.
2. Plunging breakers happen when the wave's crest becomes too steep and collapses under its own weight, forming a tube or curl.
3. Surging breakers are less powerful and occur when the wave's crest gently surges up the beach without collapsing.
The breaker is significant because it's the point at which the wave loses its energy and transfers it to the shore, contributing to the shaping of the coastline.
Works at the International Labour Organization, Lives in Geneva, Switzerland.
In fluid dynamics, a breaking wave is a wave whose amplitude reaches a critical level at which some process can suddenly start to occur that causes large amounts of wave energy to be transformed into turbulent kinetic energy.
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Carter Davis
QuesHub.com delivers expert answers and knowledge to you.
In fluid dynamics, a breaking wave is a wave whose amplitude reaches a critical level at which some process can suddenly start to occur that causes large amounts of wave energy to be transformed into turbulent kinetic energy.
