What happens when a wave reaches the shore?

Hello, I'm an expert in the field of physical oceanography, and I'd be happy to explain what happens when a wave reaches the shore. When a wave approaches the shore, several things can happen depending on the wave's energy, the slope of the beach, and the type of material that makes up the shore. Here's a step-by-step description of the process: 1. Refraction: As a wave moves into shallow water, it slows down and its speed becomes less than the speed of the wave in deeper water. This causes the wave to change direction slightly, bending towards the shore. This bending is known as refraction. 2. Breaking: When the wave's base touches the bottom, the top of the wave continues to move forward, causing the wave to break. The type of breaking can vary from a rolling break (where the wave curls smoothly) to a plunging break (where the top of the wave collapses with a lot of force), or a spilling break (where the wave's top lip spills over in a more gentle manner). 3. Run-up and Swash: After breaking, the wave's energy moves up the beach in a thin layer of water known as the swash. This is the water you see rushing up the shore. The highest point that the swash reaches is called the run-up. 4. Backwash: As the swash reaches its highest point, it slows down and starts to flow back towards the sea. This return flow of water is called the backwash. 5. Erosion and Deposition: The force of the waves can cause erosion, where sediment is removed from the shore and transported elsewhere. Conversely, deposition can occur when the wave's energy is low, and it drops sediment, adding to the beach. 6. Longshore Currents: The breaking waves can also cause water to move along the shore, creating a longshore current that can transport sediment and influence the shape of the beach.

Study each image below to learn how waves move and break. What happens to a wave as it moves into shallow water? When the water depth decreases to one half of a wave's wavelength, the wave starts to ��feel the bottom��. ... On a gentle slope, waves begin to feel the bottom far from the shore.