What causes the waves to break?

Hello, I'm an expert in coastal and oceanographic studies. Let's dive into the fascinating process of wave breaking. Waves break when they reach the shallow part of the ocean floor, known as the surf zone. The primary cause of wave breaking is the interaction between the wave and the seafloor topography. As waves move from deeper to shallower water, the part of the wave that's in contact with the seafloor slows down due to friction, while the top part of the wave continues at its original speed. This difference in speed causes the wave to bend and eventually topple over, resulting in a break. Another factor that can cause waves to break is the presence of obstacles such as rocks, sandbars, or the shape of the coastline. When waves encounter these obstacles, they can be forced to rise and steepen, leading to breaking. Additionally, the wave's own energy plays a role. Larger, more energetic waves have a higher likelihood of breaking because they have more kinetic energy to overcome the resistance of the seafloor. Lastly, the angle at which waves approach the shore can also influence breaking. Waves that approach the shore at a steep angle are more likely to break because they interact with the seafloor sooner and more abruptly. In summary, wave breaking is a complex process influenced by seafloor topography, the presence of obstacles, the wave's energy, and the angle of wave approach.

Onshore winds do the opposite. They accelerate the breaking process. Nevertheless, ocean floor topography will critically decide how wave energy will transform into whitewater. As waves reach the shore, the energy in front of the wave slows down due to friction with the shallow bottom.